Amalfi, Italy - Summer 2008

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Mon 11th - Pompeii and Vesuvius.

We had pre-booked an excursion to see the Roman site at Pompeii and Mount Vesuvio, so we had an early start to catch the hotel bus down in time to pick up the coach from Amalfi to Pompeii .

We arrived there about 11 and after buying water, sorting out tickets, radios to hear the guide (of dubious value, due to their very short range), started our tour.

We were most impressed by the scale and state of preservation of site.

The site of Pompeii is extensive and very well preserved

The forum with Vesuvio in the distance

The casts of victims of the ash were extremely poignant, but be aware that many of the famous artefacts are actually in the museum in Naples.

The remains of a Slave (identifiable by iron belt) killed in the eruption

A bakery at Pompeii - Pizza ovens are remarkably unchanged in design.

2 hours was nowhere near enough time to see the site - two days would've been more useful, but our guide did a good job of showing us the important sites (not the amphitheatre though, which was some distance from the entrance) and a wide variety of shops, houses, trade and government buildings, markets and even brothels in the time and in the hot sun (and with little shelter from it) most on the tour agreed much longer would have been hard work.

Inside the male baths, remarkably well preserved

One of the semi-wild dogs that roams the site (it's just sleeping) - They are fed and regularly tended by vets

Lauren was much taken with the semi-wild dogs that roam the site, although must were sleeping in the shade during our visit.

The courthouse where justice was adminstered

After lunch (basic, but ok) at Marcus et Caesar at Pompeii, we reboarded the bus and after a short stop at a cameo factory (clever but not our thing really) we drove up Vesuvio to the end of the road at 1000 metres altitude.

We bought more water and headed up the loose path to the live crater.

In the heat, the zig zag path was a hard, but not unduly so, climb and there was a little breeze to take the edge of the sun's heat at this altitude - It was easier in terms of the heat than Pompeii had been.

A brief rest at the top of Vesuvio

The view of the coast from the top was glorious, but aside from knowing you were on a huge ticking bomb, Vesuvio itself was just like any big hill, just with a hole in the middle.

Impressive views of the Bay of Naples from Vesuvio

We didn't see any smoke from the crater although others on our bus said they had - I suspect some had mistaken wisps of cloud blowing over the top for smoke.

Tue 12th august - Positano and the Emerald Grotto

We took the scheduled bus service to the Emerald Grotto on Tuesday, as our rep had told us that it was better than the Blue Grotto on Capri, local and much cheaper.

Our hotel - Arrow indicates location of our rooms

It was very small and more Turquoise than Emerald. The guide did his best to entertain in variety of languages but it was a bit disappointing frankly, after our rep hyped it up and took less than 10 minutes to see - It wasn't expensive, but I could happily have missed it.

Outside the Emerald Grotto - Trips by boat are a lot more expensive than the bus trip!

We had a lemon ice (Lemon's being the Amalfi speciality, with the hillsides covered with groves) in a pottery across the road from the grotto entry, whilst we waited for the next bus and then continued onto Positano.

My life flashed before my eyes a few times as our driver tried to make up time, due to some delays back in Amalfi - I like driving, but I was constantly relieved not to be driving on the Amalfi coast in the height of the tourist season.

Positano from the bus - Even at this stage I wasn't sure we'd make it!

We made it and got off the bus at top of Positano, which is built down the hill to the sea. We then wended our way down 1,000s of steps in narrow alleys to crowded shops clustered around the small beach area.

The descent through Positano is very picturesque

Lauren & Ryan pause in an alley in Positano

To be honest, once you're there, there's not much to see so we bought boat tickets back to Amalfi and after Mandy and the kids took another quick look round shops (and I sat and enjoyed the scenery) boarded.

Positano's Duomo at the bottom of the hill

Positano's crowded seafront

The boat provided a fast and picturesque journey back, which was enhanced by the excitement of watching a helicopter fighting a forest fire on a hillside.

Firefighting helicopter picks up water...

...and then drops it on bush fire on hillside

We all agreed it beat the bus any day!

Read more - Capri and the Amalfi Coast